Anguilla: the secret is out. Sailboat racing is in on the little-known Caribbean island of Anguilla, so much so that it is considered by many locals as the national sport
Anguillans, from government leaders to the average Joe, are convinced that their home-grown brand of boatbuilding and competitive sailing sets them apart from their Caribbean neighbors.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
What also sets this island apart are some of the most beautiful powder-white sand beaches to be found anywhere. Many of the island’s 33 beaches are nearly as uncrowded and pristine today as they were 13 years ago when my wife and I first set foot ashore at Blowing Point, a short ferry ride from the bustling harbor town of Marigot on nearby St. Martin.
You also won’t find any 747s landing here, tee-shirts hawked at five for $10 on every street corner or cruise ships disgorging thousands of passengers at a time.
Not for Everyone
The fact is there appears to be a movement among the islanders to establish and position Anguilla as much more than just another sun-drenched island. Few tourists would be attracted by its landscape, which can be best described as scrub. There are no verdant green pastures, thundering water-falls, sleeping volcanoes or lush forests here. There are also no golf courses–yet.
A former British colony located 150 miles due east of Puerto Rico and nine miles north of St. Martin, Anguilla, (which means eel), is 16 miles long and as much as three miles wide. A total of four traffic lights regulate what passes for traffic on the island, most of which is located in The Valley, the island’s center, its capital and home to around 600 of its 12,000 residents.
When we first landed for a day’s lark all those years ago, we marveled at the unspoiled and undeveloped nature of what was Anguilla. Upon arrival we got to choose whatever rental car we wanted. All we had to do was pick one not “guarded” by one of the roaming goats. There was little paperwork. What were we going to do? Fly off the island with the car, asked the proprietor?
Of course, we were younger and more impressionable then. But, we certainly weren’t all that clueless. Well, times have changed and development has come to Anguilla. But, so far only enough to enrich the stay and not enough yet to ruin the experience as is often the case when a place gets “discovered.”
In fact, the addition of a select few discreet and low-rise four- and five-star resorts in addition to a wealth of very nice private villas, hotels and inns that are spread out over the island rather than clustered together have added to the island’s attractiveness.
Sailing In, Welcome Mat Out
As to the island’s sailing attraction, the local spirit was on display last May, a prequel to “Anguilla Day,” when the islanders get really serious about racing against one another in their traditional and unique hand-crafted wooden sailboats.
The Anguilla Sailing Association hosted a special three-day sailing event called “Mix It Up.” Yachts from around the Caribbean raced around the island on the first day, the islanders raced against themselves on the second day; and on the third day, a “Mix It Up” regatta was held in which the skippers and crew from the off-island yachts and the local boats exchanged vessels.
Some 23 visiting yachts from St. Martin, Tortola, Antigua, France, the United Kingdom and Monaco joined 10 local boats for the weekend racing which was unfortunately hampered by light winds. While life was especially grueling for those who participated in the round-the-island race, the partying that went on into the wee hours on Sandy Ground beach more than made up for the lack of wind.
To fully appreciate Anguillan sailboat racing, consider the vessel: the boat is unique to the island in the way it is fitted and handled. These shallow-keeled open boats have no decking and no external ballast on the hull. Large smooth rocks, lead or bags of sand are used as ballast. This is often changed during a race and thrown overboard as needed. A crew consists of 10 to 18 persons, anyone of whom may be jettisoned during a race. This, of course, adds a bit of drama to the racing.
Their Class A boats are 28 feet long by nine feet wide and have masts of up to 40 feet, many of which are now made of aluminum rather than wood. Dacron sails have also largely replaced canvas sailcloth.
Unlike most competitive sailboat racing, which is nearly invisible to those ashore, Anguilla’s races are begun from the beach which is filled with music, dancing, the smell of open-pit cooking fires and sails drenched in deep colors, in stark contrast to the white sand. When the gun goes off there’s mad scramble to get aboard and head for the first mark.
While sailboat racing in Anguilla is very much a community-oriented “neighborhood” undertaking, one important indicator of just how important sailing has become to the island has been the creation of the Anguilla International Yacht Club (AIYC).
Situated on the south shore of the island, the AIYC is a brand new facility spearheaded by the colorful Italian yachtsman, Gianfranco Comparetti, who hopes to attract sailors and yacht owners from around the world who are looking for high-end accommodations without the crowds of tourists who flock to neighboring gateway islands.